The Basic Needs of the Bearded Dragon:

Before you buy a Bearded Dragon, it is important for the well-being of your new pet to educate yourself on all aspects of their care. Though they are amongst the easiest of reptiles to care for, their care remains complex. There are many different opinions out there, from the novice to the accomplished breeder. Everyone has an opinion on which insects, substrates, ultraviolet light sources are "the best". Read extensively and form your own opinion. Review the Links page on this site to lead you to some of my favorite sources of information.

Bearded Dragons are one of the easiest reptiles to keep as a pet. Their temperaments are gentle and they each have their own personality. Some dragons are very shy while others have a dog like personality. They are social creatures and interact with each other with a complex gestural language, composed of arm circling, body tilting and head and tail postures. These behaviors are seen in both sexes of the dragon. In addition, the female also has a gesture that states "I have a headache" when the male makes attempts at breeding. It works too!!

Bearded Dragons range in length from 15-24 inches making them a reptile that is manageable in size. Baby dragons require much more care than adults. Most deaths happen during the first 4-6 weeks. This is why, here at Graystone Dragons, our babies are not sold before 8 weeks of age. Juveniles grow rapidly, attaining adult lengths within a year. Due to such rapid growth, 4000% in the first six months, the dragon will shed often throughout the first year of growth. During the shed period, the dragon will eat less and want to be touched less. (Mine seem to be moody during these phases.) To facilitate the loss of this dead skin, I mist more often as well as giving them warm baths in a shallow container.

Bearded Dragons in general are healthy and robust. If cared for properly, they live an average of seven to ten years. Like other pets however, they can develop illnesses. Most times, illness can be prevented by good husbandry. Metabolic bone disease, Coccidia , worms, adenovirus and yellow fungus are among potential medical problems.

In the wild, Bearded Dragons live in open semi-desert or semi-arid shrub lands. They get most of their water intake from the foods they eat. As in the wild, a bearded dragon in captivity will require enough space to roam, climb, dig and hide. They will require appropriate nutrition, heat, temperature gradient and UVA/B to allow them to remain healthy.

Initial expenses when you want a Bearded Dragon:

First, there is the cost of your new pet. Bearded Dragons range widely in price depending on the variables involved. You may purchase your dragon from a local pet store, local breeder, or obtain your pet over the internet from a wide number of professional breeders. The price of your new bearded dragon can range immensely, costing well into the hundreds of dollars. Do your research well before you purchase any new pet. Talk to breeders and other individuals who have purchased from breeders.

Secondly, there are all the additional fixings for the cage, including lights, substrates, furniture and other supplies to include dishes, supplements and live food products.

Below is an estimated range of expenses to guide you as to cost of this venture:

In addition, other purchases include: paper towels, misting bottles, dishes for veggies-two sets, basking wood or rocks, Rubbermaid cricket tubs, Rubbermaid tub for bathing and feeding, timers, chopper, grater, dishpan and substrate. A number of items you may find around the house, but once you have used them for your reptile care, they are no longer suitable to use for your family.

Housing:

Baby dragons require smaller tanks ranging from 10-20 gallons. Buying too large a tank will result in the baby getting lost in it and unable to find its food. As your dragon grows, you then need to purchase a larger home. I have been pleased with Island Tanks that are 38 x 16 x 16. This is about a 40 gallon tank. This is a great size for a single dragon. A pair of dragons will require a tank of 75-100 gallons. Tanks are of glass or wood usually: there are other options if you wish to purchase more professional housing.

Heating and Lighting:

You will need to provide for heat and sunlight in the enclosure that would resemble the climate of the desert or semiarid shrub lands. Adult bearded dragons require heat at their basking site of 90-100 degrees. Babies require temperatures to 110 degrees in their basking area. Basic household light bulbs are perfect for providing appropriate cage temperatures. Be sure to provide a temperature gradient; temperatures should be 10-15 degrees lower on the opposite end of the tank. This permits your bearded dragon to "self-regulate" his body temperature.

Most importantly, you will need to provide UVB/UVA lighting. These bulbs simulate the sun which allows the dragon to produce Vitamin D3 which is important to the metabolism of calcium. Without calcium absorption, reptiles may develop Metabolic Bone Disease. UVB/UVA lights need to be within 12 inches from the basking site. These bulbs need to be replaced every 8-12 months. Light cycles need to be regulated; 10-14 hours light in the summer and 8-10 light in the winter.

Substrate:

Everyone has an opinion on which substrate is the healthiest and safest substrate for your dragon. There are a few options that are considered safe. Babies need to be on paper towels or with nothing. Larger dragons can be placed on washed playground sand, blank newsprint paper or Care Fresh Cat Litter. Personally I use the Mountain Cat Litter which is an absorbent wood based product. It is considered inappropriate by some breeders.

Furniture:

Furniture needs to be kept simple in your lizard's habitat. Your dragon needs a branch for climbing and basking. You also can use a nice sized rock that absorbs heat for the dragon to bask on. With rocks be sure that they are stable so that it will not fall on your dragon and cause unnecessary injury. Do not overcrowd the habitat with furniture as your reptile needs space to run about. Bearded dragons love to hide and squeeze in to tight places. Provide a hiding spot for them using branches, stable rocks, or simply purchase a half log from your local pet store. As for plants, use artificial plants as they to not require special care (water and temperature control) as some live plants do. They are easier to maintain and easier to clean. Live plants as well as artificial plants look appetizing to your dragon, so beware of potential problems with ingestion of plastic or cloth plants; be sure to do research on live plants to determine which live plants are the safest and healthiest for your dragon if ingested.

Hygiene:

Cleaning your dragon's habitat is one of the most important tasks for raising a healthy long lived dragon. Each month it is important to remove your substrate and all furniture and cleanse completely. Feces and leftover food should be removed daily. Wash feeding dishes daily in hot soapy water. Spray and soak wood and stone furniture with Nolvasan/Chlorhexidine Diacetate; bake in oven at 250 degrees for an hour or allow to dry completely in the sun. Another option is to use a very dilute mixture of bleach (10% bleach to 90% water) followed by the same procedure of drying as Nolvasan. DO NOT WASH DISHES IN FAMILY KITCHEN AREA due to the risk of salmonella exposure.

The Medicine Called Nutrition: What to feed your dragon:

In addition to the importance of proper hygiene, is the proper feeding of your new pet. Believe it or not, Bearded Dragon babies love their veggies. By two to three weeks of age, my babies really start to chow them down. Start young ones out right in life. Green leafy veggies must be offered daily to your dragon(s). The healthiest greens to feed include: collards, dandelions, mustard greens, endive, turnip greens, escarole (chicory), and parsley. In addition, winter squashes, green beans, parsnip, carrots, sweet potatoes and peas can be added to their greens. Fruits such as berries, grapes, papaya and mangos can be added occasionally as a treat. Lettuce has no nutritional value to speak of. Frankly, I never serve my dragons lettuce of any kind.

Keep variety in mind when you feed your dragon. Don't serve the same veggies all the time. Providing variety in the diet ensures that nutritional requirements are met. To prevent nutritional deficiencies in your dragon's diet it is important to understand what vitamins and minerals are necessary for health and veggies which may affect the ability of certain vitamin or minerals to be absorbed properly. Vitamin and mineral deficiencies will result in skeletal and muscular deformities, behavioral disorders, compromised immune systems, respiratory and cardiovascular complications to name a few. Vegetable sources of Vitamins for Your Beardie and their function:

Vitamin A: leafy green vegetables, yellow and orange colored vegetables. Helps in the growth and repair of issue, needed for good eyesight.

Vitamin B complex: Brewer's yeast, whole grain cereals and breads. The complex contain many B vitamins, not outlined here and are important to the conversion of carbohydrates to glucose, providing fuel for energy; also help to metabolize protein and fats; needed for normal functioning of the nervous system, good muscle tone and healthy skin.

Vitamin C: Fruits and vegetables, green leafy vegetables. Helps to form blood corpuscles, strengthens the immune system fighting bacteria and promotes healing.

Vitamin D: Sunshine, fluorescent reptile lights, supplements. Referred to as the sunshine vitamin, it is obtained from the sun; it comes in four forms of which your dragon needs D3 for the proper metabolism of the calcium-phosphorus ration (2:1). In addition Vitamin D works in conjunction with Vitamin A. Low amounts of either of these vitamins will lead to metabolic bone disease and other bone disorders.

Vitamin E: Leafy green vegetables, soybeans, nuts and seeds. This vitamin is important for healthy blood. It is also important to the health of the pituitary and adrenal hormones.

Vitamin K: Alfalfa, kelp, supplements. This vitamin is important for blood clotting and liver function.

The process of digestion is necessary for the proper breakdown and utilization of the nutrients contained in the food you have provided for your dragon. Food is broken down by enzymes, and each food type has a specific enzyme to break the food down. Enzymes often require co-enzymes to help them work; coenzymes are often the vitamins or minerals in the foods you provide.

Of significant importance for the proper metabolism of your dragons food is to remember that enzymes require heat to get the reaction of metabolism started. While in a mammal, the heat source is provided by body heat, your dragon requires the heat from the environment outside his body, your heat lamps. Be sure that your dragons have enough heat in the morning before you feed them as well as making sure their heat source continues for at least one hour before they shutdown in the evening.

Proteins are very important for the growth, development, repair of body tissues, sexual development and metabolism. Bearded Dragons are omnivores, meaning they eat both a meat source and vegetable source. Your dragon eats insects-the nutritional value of your insects (worms, crickets, etc.) depends on what they eat. Be sure to feed your live sources of food well. There are quality commercial products available that will provide proper nutrition for you live insects.

Carbohydrates are an important source and supply of energy, making them an important source of energy for muscular exertion. Carbohydrates are also important to the process of digestion and the regulation of protein.

Fats, also known as lipids, are important to the fat soluble vitamins, Vitamins A, D, E, and K which are also a source of energy. These fats are involved in a number of chemical reactions and are necessary for growth, healthy blood and kidney function.

Fiber is the cellulose content within the veggies you feed your dragon and helps with formation and elimination of feces by absorbing water. (sound familiar?)

Minerals are in tissues of all living things, making up parts of teeth, blood, nerves and muscle. Many minerals work with enzymes, vitamins and one another to facilitate each others function. A deficiency in one mineral can affect many of your dragons body systems.

The calcium-phosphorus ratio is an example of two minerals that work very closely together. Bearded Dragons require 1-1.5 % of their diet dray matter as calcium and about 0.5-0.9 phosphorus. A 1:1- 2:1 ration (calcium:phosphorus) is ideal for a food source for your dragon. Remember, however, a correct ratio does not mean your dragon is getting enough calcium or phosphorus.

To prevent calcium deficiency, it is imperative to use a calcium supplement. Available calcium supplements contain about 40% calcium carbonate, 38% limestone, 18% calcium lactate and 9% calcium gluconate. Calcium and phosphorus contents are about 24% and 12% in bonemeal and 24% and 18% in dicalcium phosphate.

The following paragraphs are included so that you can become aware of some chemicals contained in vegetables that will cause one or more medical problems.

Oxalic Acid is present in foods such as spinach, rhubarb, beets, beet greens, and swiss chard. Oxalic acid combines with calcium and forms calcium oxalate, an insoluble salt, resulting in the calcium being in a form that renders the calcium useless and leading to calcium deficiency.

Goitrogenic Cabbages include cabbage, kale, bok-choi, broccoli, turnips, rutabaga, cauliflower and brussel sprouts. These vegetables as a staple in your dragons diet can cause thyroid problems. Two members of this family of vegetables, collard greens and mustard greens are considered to be safe.

Below is a chart that I have pulled from many sources to simplify your search for the right foods. I will list nutrition sites on my links page for further exploration. The chart below is a reflection of the food sources I serve my dragons. Please note that I do not usually provide any fruit. It has been an extremely rare offer. Nutritional data has been obtained using the USDA Nutrient Database. Another resource has been from Mellisa Kaplan and Jen Swofford, knowledgeable Iguana persons. Iguanas are vegetarians and it is truly important to know what foods to feed them to keep these large lizards healthy.

I use my large processor to save time. I PULSE it such as to reach the size of bites I want for my adults and babies. Quick, simple. Then into tupperware for storage. I usually have about 2-3 days made up in advance to save time in the morning before leaving for work. This way, there is more available, so that my family can hand out veggies quickly mid-day for me and the salad is ready for the evening snack. Salads are served to both adults and babies daily; babies will get a small salad in the evening too.

Water:

can be provided to your dragon by misting them daily. In addition, soaking your dragon on a weekly basis is an excellent way to hydrate your dragon. Bearded dragons really enjoy their bath time. Weekly, I place a Rubbermaid sweater container in my bathtub and put 1-2 inches of warm water in the container. Bathing serves several purposes; hydration, cleanliness, and many times, provides an environment that encourages your dragon to pass their stool. Remember, it can be quite enjoyable for your dragon. Bathing time is entertaining as well. Some dragons get quite silly in their bath. Stay with your dragon at all times to assure its safety.

Protein/insects:

Baby dragons need to be offered crickets and/or various worms three times per day. They should not be bigger then the space between their eyes though abit larger is not usually harmful. In the wild, adult dragons sometimes will go many days without eating so remember not to over feed your dragon. I feed my adults with a protein source every other day (silkworms, a few crickets, superworms, mealworms, sow bugs as a treat from my organic compost pile and a rare cockroach). Females when breeding need daily feedings of protein and salad; post laying of a clutch, they are rewarded with a couple of baby mice, called pinkies; my large females appreciate fuzzies, baby mice with a touch of fur. Silkworms are one of the best staples of your dragon's diet. They are soft, high in water content, easy to dust and finally, easy to maintain. In addition, silkworms are as high as 64% protein with a P:Ca ratio of 2.35:1.

Gutloading for your insect's nutritional health:

Everyone has heard the expression, "You are what you eat." That is very true with the insects you feed your Bearded Dragon. Be sure you purchase a quality gutload (food source) for you insects. Simply putting down some lettuce leaves or orange halves is not enough. To keep your insects healthy and to supply your Bearded Dragon with more nutrients, the insects must be feed well. Don't cheat here. It's for the health of your bearded dragon.

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For more information email us at: barbaragray@graystonedragons.com